Fishing the South Glades: Coot Bay

Where the swamps of Everglades National Park meet the seagrass flats of the Florida Bay, some of the most pristine fishing persists. The only major sign of human settlement in the area is a little fishing and camping town named Flamingo.

This past winter, my dad and I strapped our kayaks to the car and drove a few hours to target snook and tarpon in Coot Bay, a lake just a few miles north of Flamingo.

State Highway 9336 led us from Florida City down a winding road into progressively swampier land.

The area is so isolated that mosquitoes are extraordinarily rampant. Before applying bug spray we found ourselves covered with dozens of mosquitoes even though we were standing in the wind.

We launched our kayaks into Coot Bay Pond, a murky lagoon that leads to the lake through a narrow mangrove tunnel.

A school of little tarpon greeted us in the pond almost immediately. They were not much longer than a foot and adamantly refused any bait we threw at them. We brought a few dozen live shrimp and an array of artificials, but to no avail. Figuring there were bigger fish to catch we paddled past the baby tarpon and into Coot Bay.

The open water was picturesque. The lake is maybe a mile or 2 across and surrounded by mangroves. Other than an occasional skiff passing by in the distance we were the only people on the water.

Since cellphone signal is spotty and civilization is limited in Everglades National Park, it’s wise to have someone with you and to bring a GPS. The GPS can also come in handy saving fishing spot coordinates.

My dad and I began by casting along the mangroves on the edge of the bay. Although it was winter time, the water abounded with life. Jumping mullet and flocks of coots, the small birds to which the bay owes its name, were everywhere.

After several casts with live shrimp proved ineffective, I tied on my trusty Catch 2000 and landed a few casts perfectly under the mangroves.

It didn’t take long for a fish to strike. As soon as I felt the line scream I tightened the drag on my Shimano Spheros 4000, fearful that whatever I hooked would tangle me in the mangroves.

After a solid fight I pulled the fish alongside my boat so my dad could snap a picture. It was a fairly average sized snook with a very vivid complexion, probably owing to the clean water in the lake.

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The rest of the day proved somewhat uneventful other than a few alligators or crocodiles we spotted. Interestingly, this part of South Florida is the only region in the world where the two species coexist.

After using our GPS to relocate the mangrove tunnel leading back to Coot Bay Pond, we paddled back.

The tarpon were waiting for us in the pond once again. Determined to catch one of the them I tried a few more lures.

Finally, one of them found my MirrOdine enticing and decided to strike. After a few impressive jumps I pulled the little silver king up to my kayak. It appeared to be larger than most tarpon I had seen rolling, maybe a good 22 inches.

As the sun set and the mosquitoes started to eat us alive, my dad and I strapped our kayaks to the car.

Coot Bay was certainly one of the most unique places I have had the pleasure of fishing. Because of the area’s isolation, it characterizes pre-Columbian Florida as well as anywhere.

Surf Fishing Part Four: Summer

To conclude my seasonal summary of South Florida’s surf fishing I’ll discuss the summer, arguably the most productive surf fishing season of the year. From late May to about September, South Florida’s beaches boil with baitfish migrating south for the winter.

The baitfish are followed closely by a variety of predators, including big-time gamefish like snook and tarpon. Other fish in the surf during the summer include jacks, barracuda, whiting, houndfish and ladyfish.

The most effective method for catching snook and other gamefish is to capture live bait and toss it in a bucket with a filtration system. Artificial lures, such as topwaters or hard-plastic jigs, work effectively, but nothing compares to the real thing.

Many surf fishermen use cast nets to capture dozens of baitfish with a single cast. Learning how to cast net isn’t difficult, but definitely requires some practice and dedication. An easier method is to use a sabiki rig to catch baitfish. These rigs consist of several hooks joined to a line with a weight on the end.

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School of pilchards in Florida’s surf

Armed with a bucket of live pilchards or sardines, the chances of hooking a sizable snook are pretty good on most South Florida beaches.

The linesiders can be spotted cruising as close as a yard from the shorebreak. I prefer to target snook with a light-medium outfit and 15-30 pound test. A long fluorocarbon leader is helpful as these fish can be wise when confronted with a hooked bait.

Hooking baitfish properly is crucial because they must swim naturally in order to fool predators. Most fishermen prefer to hook them through the nose, just below and in front of the eyes. It’s also important to be careful when casting bait because the hook can slip out of the fish’s nose if you whip the rod too hard. Snook hunt close to shore just as often as in deeper surf, so flinging your bait a long distance is usually not necessary.

When using larger baitfish, like bluerunners, it’s sometimes better to hook the fish through the back, approximately between the tail and the pectoral fins, but closer to the dorsal (top) of the fish. Baitfish tend to die quicker when hooked like this but it also gives you a little bit more freedom to cast in the wind.

When aiming for snook and tarpon it’s best to allow the bait to swim naturally in whatever direction it desires. Most often, the baitfish will follow nearby schools. The bail should be opened when the bait tugs, but it’s also important to keep the line somewhat tense to ensure that you can feel when a fish strikes.

As soon as baitfish begin to go limp in the water they should be tossed back and replaced. Depending on the species of baitfish and the surf conditions, some can swim as long as twenty minutes, whereas others weaken and die after a cast or two.

Snook have a very distinct manner in which they strike. Typically they take a quick, light “chomp” out of the bait that feels like a brief tug. Then they take a second bite, crushing the bait whole with their strong mouths and launching into flight mode.

Larger snook tend to fight simply by going on long, energetic runs parallel with the shore. Smaller specimen, around two feet or less, frequently jump as they attempt to shake the hook.

One of the most interesting aspects of snook is that they are protodogenous hermaphrodites, meaning they undergo a sex change from male to female as they grow. This is important to the management of the species, as female snook must be kept in abundance to ensure that there are enough adult fish capable of breeding to sustain the population.

In Atlantic state waters, possession of a fishing license and valid snook permit are necessary to harvest the species. Both of these documents can be purchased online here. Additionally, snook must be caught during season and must be between 28 and 32 inches in length on Florida’s east coast. The snook season is closed from Dec. 31 Jan. 1 and from June 1 to Aug. 31. So snook fishing during the summer is done more for sport than food.

From over a decade of beach fishing I can attest that few fish put up the fight that snook do. They are an old favorite of longtime sportfishermen throughout the state, and are not found anywhere else in the country. Their preservation is important to the sportfishing community, so it is advisable to report any poaching to the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission.

 

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Large surf snook caught by Steve Plamann in June 2011. Photo by Michelle Quigley.

 

Surf Fishing Part Three: Spring

As south Florida’s winter comes to a close, life returns to the surf as the snowbirds depart. Migratory fish begin to reverse course and travel back up north as the water warms.

The spring is one of Florida’s most interesting beach fishing seasons because you can never be sure of what you’ll catch. Whereas the fall features dense bluefish and mackerel schools, fish tend to be more sparse in the spring.

This doesn’t necessarily mean there are fewer fish out there to catch. It just means that different strategies need to be put to use.

Jack crevalle, bluefish and bluerunner are common surf fish in the late winter and early spring. With the surf still choppy on most days and the baitfish still not very prevalent, casting artificial lures is the easiest way to go about catching these species.

I spend most of my beach-fishing days in the spring flinging a silver spoon. The Lurh Jensen Krocodile Spoon is one of my good ol’ reliable choices.

The reason I find the spoon so successful, particularly in late February and early March, is because jack and bluerunners will hit anything moving that’s shiny.

When the mornings and evenings are still a bit brisk in late winter and early spring, 1 to 4-pound jack are my target of choice in the surf. They’re a lot of fun on light tackle with 5 to 15-pound test. I’ve had days at the beach when I hooked a jack nearly every cast.

Another option for the more extreme beach angler is shark or tarpon fishing.

As discussed in the winter surf fishing story, sharks group up and migrate seasonally. In the late winter they venture north in large aggregations.

Migrating sharks can sometimes swim so close to shore their large bodies can be seen inside the sand bar. Occasionally these sightings prompt beach closures.

Fishing for sharks this time of year is no different than the way I described it in the winter surf fishing series, so I won’t go into depth explaining how to pursue them. However, another massive fish that makes its appearance in the spring needs a bit of an introduction.

Tarpon begin to arrive in the South Florida surf in the late spring. They follow many smaller migratory fish, like jack and ladyfish, as the water warms.

I have personally never caught a tarpon at the beach, however, I’ve spent my share of time fighting them.

Two years ago I hooked a tarpon on a Catch 2000 completely unexpectedly. The fish was well over 100 pounds. My light surf rod was bent in half for about an hour and a half as I tussled with the fish. Of course, my 15-pound leader stood no chance against a fish of that magnitude and eventually it frayed the line enough to break off.

To actually land a tarpon in the surf, shark-like tackle is a necessity. Heavy rods and reels armed with 40-pound monofilament is ideal. I would suggest spooling at least 500 yards of line on your reel and using a long fluorocarbon leader to ensure tarpon cannot see the line in the water. A wire leader, however, should not be used because tarpon are much more picky about their bait and will hesitate to hit rigs with wire.

That brings me to another difference between sharks and tarpon. Whereas shark will eat just about anything you rest on the bottom, tarpon have their preferences.

Using mullet or ladyfish, two primary prey of surf tarpon, is probably the best option. They can be hooked, dead or alive, and either suspended or weighted in the surf. Because tarpon tend to swim somewhat high in the water column I prefer to drop my bait beneath a bobber.

Tarpon can be very abstruse with their feeding habits. I’ve seen them swim right past live bait and ignore it and I watched one nail a lure meant for jack and snook.

While they can be hit-or-miss, you always have to be prepared in the event that you actually do hook a tarpon.

Fighting a tarpon requires quick wits and a steady arm. Initially the fish will thrash and rocket out of the water in an attempt to shake the hook.

It’s imperative to “bow to the silver king” as the fish jumps out of the water. This helps keep the line taut so the hook doesn’t slip out. As the tarpon takes long runs it’ll wear itself out. The massive fish tend to have more energy than imaginable so be ready for a long, weary fight.

Above all, if you manage to pull a tarpon onshore, be  careful while handling it. Harvesting tarpon is banned with the exception granted by a special permit. Tarpon above 40 inches are also required to remain at least partially in the water. So take your pictures next to the surf.

Before surf fishing in general I suggest reviewing FWC’s regulations by species. These regulations change frequently but any avid angler should remain aware of current sportfish regulations.

 

 

Surf Fishing Part Two: Winter

While fall is a spectacular surf fishing season for Florida, gamefish tend to be scarce in the winter. Surf conditions are a major reason. Swells, seaweed and choppy water make it tough to keep a bait out in the water.

The metabolic rates of fish, along with their appetites, also decline as the water gets colder.

One of Florida’s most iconic surf fish, however, is heavily targeted throughout the winter. The Florida pompano, a classic state seafood dish, moves seasonally based on temperature.

After arriving in fall along with the bluefish and mackerel, pompano are present well into the spring but can be caught in the surf year-round.

While considered more prevalent in north-central Florida, pompano schools off South Florida beaches arrive in abundant numbers in the winter, especially after cold fronts.

When water temperatures dip into the 50-60 F range pompano migrate further south, inhabiting waters from the coast of Palm Beach County down to the Keys.

Although pompano movement can be tough to predict, fishing tactics are fairly consistent and simple. They feed on crustaceans and mollusks, particularly sand fleas, which can be caught in the surf using a sand flea rake. Shrimp, squid and small crabs may work as well.

Weighted pompano rigs sold at bait stores are an easy way to catch pompano in rougher surf.

Even when the waves are mild pompano are caught most easily by weighing a sand flea down on the bottom, with a light rig (4 to 8-lb. test) and small hooks. Florida pompano commonly range from 1 to 4 pounds.

Some fishermen like to position multiple pompano rods along the beach in homemade rod holders built from PVC pipes.

Sharks are caught in the winter using similar tactics with cut bait. However, as opposed to light rigs, heavy line (30 to 100-lb. test), stiff rods and wire leaders are essential in targeting big-game like sharks.

As mentioned in the previous surf fishing post, catch regulations are widely enforced along Florida’s beaches. It is imperative to review local FWC fishing regulations before going out to fish. The regulations are available digitally here: http://www.eregulations.com/florida/fishing/saltwater/pageFlip/

Shark fishing is outright banned on certain Florida beaches. But where it’s permitted it is important to treat sharks with care because many species are prohibited from harvest. It is also important, obviously, to be cautious when handling sharks due to the danger posed by their sharp teeth and rough skin.

Different fishermen employ various strategies when targeting sharks off the beach, however, I find that they all share one common aspecta sizable bait suspended in the water column or sitting on the sandy bottom.

Large, frozen bait such as mullet works well for sharks. But live or fresh dead fish tend to tantalize the predators the most. Nurse sharks feed on any type of dead bait resting on the bottom, like shrimp or crabs.

Sharks are always around even though you don’t usually see their fins in the water. They feed nocturnally and are probably most prevalent at dusk.

Patience is the most important virtue in shark fishing. Often you just need to sit and wait for your reel to scream.

To get bait far enough off the beach a long surf rod is often used to hurl it as far as possible. Other strategies include carrying bait on a kayak or swimming out with your bait (highly discouraged).

Shark are easiest to catch when large migrations swim north up the coast in March and April. These schools have been well covered in the media in recent years and look spectacular from an aerial perspective.

I find the winter a great time to shark fish because few other fish are prevalent in the “cold” Florida months. Sharks also prefer rough, cloudy surf, which are typical conditions in the winter.

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Nurse shark caught in the surf using a sardine as bait. Photo by Steve Plamann.

Surf Fishing Part One: Fall

Florida’s Atlantic beaches offer more than a beautiful sunbathing destination—its coastal waters are home to the continental United States’ largest shallow coral reef system and an assortment of other productive fishing habitats.

Fortunately for fishermen on a budget a wide array of gamefish swim within casting distance of the shore. However, fishing conditions in the surf vary widely from season to season.

In the following four posts I’ll describe South Florida’s surf fishing on a seasonal basis, noting the best strategies for different species and times of the year.

When harvesting fish from the ocean it is important to be informed of local catch guidelines, which change frequently and vary from county to county. A digital guide of FWC’s guidelines are available here: http://www.eregulations.com/florida/fishing/saltwater/pageFlip/.

I’ll start with arguably the most exciting surf fishing season of the year, the autumn. Bluefish make their seasonal migration along the state’s eastern coast from September to November, with some stragglers moving through during the winter. Many surf fishermen would attest that few fish are more plentiful than the blues in the fall.

Bluefish are often accompanied by ladyfish, a spectacular aerial fighter dubbed the “poor man’s tarpon,” along with spanish mackerel and jack crevalle. These voracious species will strike just about any bait moving steadily through the water, so sturdy topwaters, metal spoons and plugs are great lure options. Any type of cut bait, including shrimp or sardines, works as well.

Bluefish migrate south in the fall in response to dropping temperatures. Their arrival is evident to any beach fisherman with a keen eye. The schools spark lively feeding frenzies that can last hours or dissipate in minutes.

They stalk schools of mullet and other baitfish but seem set on eating just about anything in their path.

Bluefish, mackerel and jack are all sharp-toothed predators, so a strong leader—possibly wire—and a capable pliers are necessary. Because most specimen schooling along the shore range from about 2 to 5 pounds, light to medium tackle is ideal.

Mackerel and bluefish also make outstanding seafood dishes. Their meat can be smoked and made into fish dip, as well as grilled or pan fried.

While snook are generally most prevalent in the summer, during which their season is closed in the Atlantic (from Jun. 1 to Aug. 31), they remain in the surf year-round and are frequently caught in the early fall.

Surf snook range very close to slot size, making the beach an enticing spot for anglers hoping to take home one of the tastiest gamefish in Florida. It’s also a popular spot for FWC officials too, so make sure  you keep your fishing license on you.

Because they make their presence more pronounced in the summer, I will discuss snook in more detail in my summer surf fishing post.

Their picky feeding habits make snook a tough species to target in the fall. As the winter approaches, baitfish migrate through south Florida, becoming less common later in the year.

Without live bait to catch or net my next favorite strategy for surf snook is to cast a MirrOlure with a 15 to 25-pound leader.

Two of the best snook lures, and all-around surf lures for that matter, are MirrOlure’s Catch 2000 and MirrOdine. They are my go-to lures at a variety of spots, but especially for surf snook.

A slow-twitch retrieve works ideally, but snook are hit-or-miss. I like the MirrOlures for that reason because they also tend to attract jack, bluefish, ladyfish and just about anything else swimming in the fall surf.

Rough, seaweed-ridden waves can look discouraging in the late fall. But these conditions yield plenty of snook if you know which lures to use.

 

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A snook I caught off the shore of Delray Beach, Fla in fall of 2012. Photo by Steve Plamann.

 

 

South Florida Spillways

The rain can be a fisherman’s best friend or worst enemy. In most cases anglers check the forecast in hopes that the chances of rain dissipate before they go out fishing.

As the rainy season in Florida approaches I find it appropriate to discuss one of the rare instances in which rain will be your best friend — when targeting the spillways.

Dozens of spillways, lock or dam-like structures, occupy South Florida’s water management canals that run west to east, perpendicular to the coast. Where these structures divide the freshwater canals from Florida’s saltwater, an interesting phenomenon occurs.

The spillways are designed to open their gates when inland water rises to a certain level, usually as a result of heavy rain. When the gates open freshwater is released into waterways that eventually lead to the ocean.

The gates serve as a dinner bell for an assortment of gamefish, which gather below the spillway to eat the freshwater organisms that are swept through by the current.

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Snook are especially prevalent at these spillways and can be caught there year-round. Tarpon, gar and jack also frequent the spillways.

A series of popular snook spillways run periodically through Palm Beach County and further south. Here is a short list of several that I have firsthand knowledge of:

  • Lake Worth Spillway
    • Located between the cities of Lake Worth and West Palm Beach
    • Accessible by foot
  • C-16 Canal
    • Located in Boynton Beach just south of the inlet
    • Only accessible by boat
  • C-15 Canal
    • Located between the cities of Delray Beach and Boca Raton
    • Accessible by foot or boat (be cautious on foot due to rocky bank)

The Hillsboro Canal in Deerfield Beach and C-14 canal in Pompano Beach are further south, but I have heard rumors that they are popular snook spots as well.

After several days of rainfall the spillways can release water at rapid rates. Heavy weights are necessary when angling close to the spillway opening. When the spillway gates are closed or only partially open live bait can be freelined with the current.

Light to medium tackle with at least 15 to 20-pound. test is the minimum outfit I recommend. Large snook have an abundance of structure along the canal to cut off line so a tight drag is crucial.

Snook usually sit below the current or next to pilings and ambush prey drifting past. Live bait is generally most productive. Pilchards, mullet, shrimp and crabs work well. One way spillway fishermen acquire bait is by cast netting freshwater fish like shad and panfish on the freshwater side of the canal.

Artificial lures that perform well include soft-plastics and jerk baits. Hard-plastic lures that sink can be effective as well.

Snook are often present even when the spillway gates are closed. Accessing the canals can be difficult, especially after long periods of rain when many anglers are present. Just be prudent to obey no trespassing signs when fishing by foot. Maintain a respectable distance by boat.

Spillways are a common site for fishermen to violate snook regulations. Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission officials are aware of this so be sure to abide by the catch guidelines and report anyone poaching fish.

Next time the rain ruins your fishing trip wait until the sun comes out and hit the spillways. The snook will be feasting.

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Why I fish

To provide some background into my life and why I’m writing this blog I would like to start by discussing why I do something that I love: fishing.

Plenty of people have evident reasons to fish. Some feed their families, while others earn a livelihood behind a net or rod.

But when it comes to sportfishing, rationalizing an angler’s actions isn’t as straightforward.

As a sportfisherman, I can’t say I fish for a salary or sustenance, but I can say that the sport itself has become a major part of my life and something that I care about preserving.

Before I was old enough to even stand on a seawall, my dad had taught me how to hold a fishing rod.

I kept a copy of Vic Dunaway’s Sport Fish of Florida tucked in my backpack all through gradeschool. While most kids were memorizing their multiplication tables I was memorizing fishing techniques, regulations and species in my free time.

I still remember my first snook as vividly as my first kiss. It was a little fish no longer than 8 or 9 inches but at the time I felt like I had just landed Moby Dick.

I could go on for days justifying my love for fishing through the experiences that have helped shape who I am, but the true reason why I fish isn’t something I understood until I left South Florida for the University of Florida two years ago to pursue my undergrad degree.

In Delray Beach—my hometown—I loved to fish the beach, inlet, canals, and even a golf course with tarpon in its ponds.

I took my friends fishing fairly often, but my dad was by far my most common companion. He had taught me how to fish, and from my earliest memories fishing played a major role in our relationship.

Fishing didn’t just bring us together as the typical “father-son” activity. I mean it did bring us together, but it also served as a skill for us to master together and develop a passion for.

We fed off of each other’s excitement and ambition to catch fish. The grin I always saw on my dad’s face after I managed to pull in an impressive fish constantly reminded me why I enjoyed fishing, and why I kept doing it.

That’s why when I got to Gainesville and no longer had my father to fish with, I realized that my value in fishing was rooted in more than my will to catch fish and refine my skills. Having someone I was happy to share my knowledge and experiences with always meant a lot to me.

For that reason I’ll be sharing my South Florida fishing wisdom through this blog. My expertise is primarily inshore saltwater fishing on lighter tackle, but I also know my fair share of bass spots and offshore reefs along Florida’s Southeast coast.

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